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Compress images without wrecking them

Cut photo file sizes for a website or a form without the blotchy edges that ruin a picture. Batch several at once.

  • Runs on your device
  • No sign up
  • Ready in seconds

How to compress images

Three steps from a folder of heavy photos to files small enough to upload.

1

Add your pictures

Drop a folder of photos onto the panel or browse for them. They open inside the page itself, so none of them are uploaded anywhere.

2

Set the quality

Move the slider until the trade feels right, and cap the width if the picture is far bigger than the space it has to fill. Most photos sit comfortably around 75.

3

Check each one, then save

Every image shows its own before and after size next to a preview of the actual result. Save them one at a time, or take the whole set as a zip.

Why use this tool

What you get here that an upload based compressor cannot offer, and what happens to the picture itself.

Your photos never leave the device

The work happens in the browser tab. Nothing is uploaded, nothing waits in a queue, and there is no copy sitting on a server for someone to delete later.

You judge the result, not a number

Each picture is shown as it came out, not as it went in. If the sky has gone blotchy or a logo has picked up a halo, you see it before you commit to the file.

One slider, no guessing games

Quality is yours to set from 40 to 95. Nothing is applied silently in the background, and the same setting is used across the whole batch so the results stay consistent.

Width capped where it matters

Most oversized files are simply too large for where they end up. Capping the long edge often saves more than any amount of squeezing, and it costs nothing visible.

Why your photos are so much bigger than they need to be

A picture straight out of a phone is built for a future you might never need. Twelve megapixels, full colour depth, and enough detail to print it a metre wide. Then it goes into a web page where it will be shown four hundred pixels across, or into a form that only ever displays it as a thumbnail. Everything past that point is weight with no purpose.

This is why capping the longest edge often does more than any quality setting. Cutting a photo from 4000 pixels wide to 1600 removes about eighty four percent of the pixels before a single detail is thrown away, and on screen the two look identical. Squeezing quality on top of that is a second, smaller saving rather than the main event.

The part people get wrong

Most people reach straight for the quality slider and drag it to the floor. That is the one move guaranteed to produce the mottled, watery patches that make a photo look cheap. Resize first, compress gently second, and the same file size arrives with a far better picture attached.

What quality really controls

JPEG and WebP both work by grouping pixels into blocks and describing each block approximately rather than exactly. The quality number decides how rough that approximation is allowed to be. High numbers keep fine variation, low numbers flatten it.

Detail hides the damage. Grass, brick, hair and foliage stay convincing at settings that would ruin a plain wall, because your eye has too much going on to notice a little imprecision. Smooth areas are where compression shows itself, which is why skies, skin, studio backdrops and flat brand colours are the first places to check.

Setting What to expect Where it suits
90 and above Effectively no visible change, modest saving Portfolio work, product photography, anything that gets printed
75 to 85 Clean at normal viewing size, files drop sharply Blog images, page banners, most website work
62 to 74 Small files, slight softening in flat areas Thumbnails, galleries, anything shown small
Below 60 Patchiness appears in skies and skin Only when a hard upload limit leaves no choice

Seventy eight is the default here because it clears the limits most forms impose while leaving photographs looking like photographs. If you are unsure, run your most difficult picture at two settings and compare. That takes twenty seconds and beats guessing.

Picking the right format

JPEG

The safe choice. Every browser, every email client, every upload form and every ancient piece of government software opens a JPEG without complaint. It cannot store transparency, so anything see through comes out white. For ordinary photographs it remains an excellent option.

WebP

Typically twenty five to thirty percent smaller than a JPEG of the same visual quality, and it keeps transparent backgrounds. Every current browser supports it. The catch is older desktop software and the occasional submission portal that still refuses anything but JPG or PNG. Use WebP on your own website, use JPEG when someone else decides what is acceptable.

PNG

PNG records every pixel exactly, which is perfect for screenshots, logos, diagrams and anything with crisp text or hard edges. It is a poor container for photographs, and a photo saved as PNG can easily be five times larger than it needs to be. If a picture is a photo in a PNG wrapper, changing the format is the single biggest saving available to you.

The limits you are probably up against

Compression is rarely done for fun. Something refused a file, and these are the usual culprits.

  • Upload forms. Visa applications, job portals and council websites commonly cap each image at 1 or 2 MB, and some go as low as 500 KB. They frequently cap dimensions as well, so a small file that is still 4000 pixels wide can be rejected too.
  • Page speed. Images are usually the heaviest thing on a web page. A gallery of untouched phone photos can put twenty megabytes in front of a visitor, and on a mobile connection that visitor leaves before the page finishes.
  • Email. Most services stop somewhere around twenty five megabytes for the whole message. Ten holiday photos will pass that on their own.
  • Storage that is filling up. Not a hard limit, but a real one. Shared drives quietly fill with originals nobody will ever need at full size.

If the file that has to shrink is a document rather than a picture, our PDF compressor handles that side, and you can put several documents together first with Merge PDF.

Working through a batch sensibly

When you have thirty photos to get through, a few habits save time and regret.

  • Keep your originals. Compression is a one way street. Work on copies and leave the untouched files somewhere safe, because you cannot recover detail once it has gone.
  • Test on the worst one first. Find the picture with the largest area of plain sky, wall or skin. If that survives the settings, everything else will.
  • Do not compress twice. Each pass discards what the last one kept, and the losses accumulate. Go back to the original and use a lower number instead of stacking two rounds.
  • Match the width to the destination. A full width banner rarely needs more than 1920 pixels. A photo inside an article rarely needs more than 1280. Thumbnails need far less again.
  • Check the result at full size. A thumbnail hides everything. Open the saved file properly before you send a batch you cannot easily redo.

Compressing without handing your pictures to anyone

Almost every online image compressor works the same way. Your photos are uploaded to a server, processed there, and offered back as a download. For holiday snaps that is fine. For a passport scan, a medical form, a photograph of your children or unreleased product shots, it means your files sat on somebody else’s machine for as long as their policy says, and you have no way to check what happened in between.

This tool never sends them. The page uses your browser’s own image decoder to open each picture and writes the new versions back out in the same tab. Open the network panel in your developer tools and watch while it runs. Nothing leaves. It also means the tool keeps working if your connection drops after the page has loaded, and that there is nothing to delete afterwards, because nothing was ever stored.

Questions about image compressor

The things people want to settle before they compress a photo they cannot easily replace.

Around 75 suits nearly everything on a website and keeps the file small enough for most upload forms. Photographs with a lot of detail can drop to 65 without much complaint. Below about 55 the damage starts to show in smooth areas such as skies, skin and flat backgrounds, which is where the blotchy patches appear first. Compare a couple of settings on your worst picture rather than trusting one number for the whole set.

PNG stores every pixel exactly, so there is no quality to trade away. Screenshots, logos and flat graphics are already close to their smallest useful size in that format. If the picture is a photograph saved as PNG, converting it to JPEG or WebP will cut it dramatically. If it needs a transparent background, WebP keeps the transparency and still saves a great deal.

JPEG has no transparent pixels, so anything see through becomes white. The tool checks for transparency before it chooses a format, and moves those files to WebP instead of flattening them behind your back. You can also pick the format yourself if you would rather decide.

No. The page reads the files with the browser's own image decoder and writes the new versions out the same way. You can watch the network tab while it runs and nothing goes out. It also means the tool carries on working if your connection drops once the page has loaded.

You can, but there is little to gain and something to lose. Each pass throws away detail the previous one kept, and the losses build up rather than cancel out. Go back to the original picture and use a lower setting instead of stacking two compressions on top of each other.

Browsers cannot decode HEIC, so those files are left out of the list. Set the camera to Most Compatible in the iPhone camera settings, or export the photo as JPEG first, then bring it here.